The Victoria Falls Hotel – the history

The Victoria Falls Hotel owes its existence to the arrival of the railway line; when it reached Victoria Falls the development of tourism on the south bank of the Zambezi started in earnest.

Cecil Rhodes planned for a Cape to Cairo railway and although this was never achieved, the remarkable penetration of rail into the heart of Africa brought development to the region. Once the first steam train arrived in Victoria Falls, plans for the construction of the bridge turned into reality, all of which meant accommodation was needed.

The hotel opened its doors in June 1904 as a simple building of wood with a corrugated iron roof, well raised from the ground to afford ventilation and freedom from damp and pests. It consisted of 12 single rooms and four doubles, a dining room, a bar and offices. The manager was a colourful hotelier named Pierre Gavuzzi and the lowest tariff was 12/6d per day.

New brick building

By 1913, excursion trains from Cape Town to the Falls were operating at around five a year and with the increased volumes of tourists, a decision was taken to rebuild the hotel in brick. The new building consisted of 24 bedrooms, two suites and five public rooms, which were the lounge, the writing room, the drawing and music room, the smoking room and the dining room.

Office accommodation to the left and right of the main entrance was also included and there was a small private bar. The original hotel buildings were dismantled and re-assembled to the south of the hotel, approximately where the laundry is now.

After the First World War, tourism levels began to pick up again in the early 1920s - visitors then numbered around 3,000 per year. Many of the guests staying at the hotel were elderly and had found the walk to the Falls tiring in the heat; the rickshaw rides were not too comfortable either - so in 1920 a trolley service was introduced.

Staff pushed trolleys

A two-foot gauge track was laid, which ran from the hotel along the line of the original railway track, down to what was then the Southern Rhodesian end of the bridge, with a spur line continuing to a point near where the Livingstone statue stands today. Gravity propelled the trolleys downhill to the Falls, but for uphill sections the hotel employed staff to push them.

This service continued for the next 37 years and during that period it is estimated that over two million passengers travelled on these trolleys. One has been preserved and today stands in the courtyard of The Victoria Falls Hotel.

In 1926 ‘hammerhead’ shaped wings were added on to the north of the hotel and this gave an extra capacity of 50 rooms and four suites. Almost every room now had a private bathroom and those baths previously provided for communal use are remembered as being so large that no child was permitted to use them unaccompanied.

Saturday dinner dances

At this time, the only developments on the Southern Rhodesia side of the bridge were The Victoria Falls Hotel and the railway station with the post office and curio shops. The main development was in Livingstone in Northern Rhodesia. The bridge only had a rail track and no roadway, so the Railways started a service known as the ‘Weekender’ which ran from Livingstone to the Falls Hotel. Many people came over on a Saturday night to enjoy the dinner dances at The Victoria Falls Hotel and returned the next day.

In 1928 the swimming pool was added, and for privacy, walls were erected. For many years there was no mixed bathing, as it appears that a visiting Maharajah had made a request to the Administrator in Livingstone not to allow this. Apparently, this was upheld for some time.

The addition of the court wing followed in 1929. This runs from the main reception area, where some of the offices are now. Of special importance was the inclusion of the chapel in this extension. This was consecrated on 28 February, 1932, by the Bishop of Southern Rhodesia, the Rt Reverend E F Paget. The altar is made of Indian teak and the cross and candlesticks were specially designed in London, similar to those used in St-Martins-in-the-Field church in Trafalgar Square, London. The seating capacity is 40, and Anglican services are still held in the chapel at 7.30am every Sunday.

The Royal Visit

T. G. Colquhoun took over the management of the hotel in 1937 and he played host to many Allied soldiers travelling north, and to the many airmen receiving their basic training, during the Second World War, in the then Southern Rhodesia. Vincent Tones took over from Colquhoun after the war, and he remained until 1961.

Almost immediately on arrival, Tones was involved in preparations for the Royal Visit of his Majesty King George VI, Queen Elizabeth and the two princesses, Elizabeth and Margaret. This took place in 1947 and the royal party took over the whole hotel. The Queen occupied the suite in the south hammerhead, which for many years was named the Queen’s Suite, but now is called the Livingstone Suite.

At around this time, the Solent flying boat service was started from London to South Africa. The flying boats landed on the Zambezi and passengers disembarked, to spend a night or two at The Victoria Falls Hotel before their onward journey either by road or air. Food rationing still existed in England after the war – and passengers were always impressed by the sumptuous catering on board, which was provided by the hotel.

Tourism flourishes

Tourist levels continued to increase and by the end of 1947 more than 11,000 visitors had been accommodated by The Victoria Falls Hotel. Decisions were taken to increase the size of the hotel once more.

In 1950 the second floor was added to the court wing, which included a conference room – then called the Pullman Suite. Many conferences were held here for government, railways and private businesses. Southern Africa, including the Rhodesias (now Zambia and Zimbabwe), was promoted heavily overseas, and tourism continued to flourish.

In 1961 a section of the lounge was modified to make a new cocktail bar. This was air-conditioned – the first in the country - and the bar was called the Rainbow Room. The 60s also saw the addition of a bank, a hairdressing salon and a curio shop in the foyer.

One of the most notable government conferences held in The Victoria Falls Hotel was the one convened to work out the break-up of the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland in 1963.

Flame Lily Holidays

Although the numbers of visitors had shown a slight decline in 1961, luxury liner and air travel soon reversed this. Groups of passengers from exotic cruise liners arriving in South Africa flew up to the Falls, and with the advent of the Flame Lily air holiday packages, linking Wankie (now Hwange), Kariba and the Falls, the number of arrivals increased to almost 22,000 visitors in the year ending June 1967.

1970 was an important year in the history of The Victoria Falls Hotel. For the second time only since 1904, the railways leased out the hotel - to Rhodesia Breweries. This provided capital for essential extensions and refurbishments to the hotel. Pounds, shillings and pence were replaced by dollars and cents and the Breweries provided funding in the sum of $580,000 for essential modernisation, such as air-conditioning in all rooms, with the exception of the Livingstone Room, and construction of the rooms above the lounge was completed.

Many smaller rooms were converted into bathrooms and at the end the hotel was awarded three stars. However, the closure of the border with Zambia and ensuing isolation of Rhodesia impacted greatly on tourism, while Victoria Falls was once again the scene of much military activity.

Tourism boom period

Every room in the hotel had a sign detailing the action to be taken in the event of an attack, but the grand old hotel survived unscathed; the only incident appears to have been a mistake when a mortar fired from the Zambian side of the river landed near the laundry.

With the emergence of Zimbabwe as a nation in April 1980, came Zimbabwe Sun Hotels – the successors to Southern Sun. Business levels remained low until the late 1980s, when Zimbabwe’s tourism boom period started, lasting right through to 1999.

On 15 January,1996, for the first time in the history of The Victoria Falls Hotel, it closed its doors, to allow for the largest yet refurbishment and expansion. During the ten weeks of closure, with staff working 18 hours a day, the hot and cold water pipes were replaced; the old coal-fired boilers removed and replaced with environmentally friendly electric geysers; the steam operated laundry was replaced with electric equipment and a new electricity sub-station was built, equipped and commissioned. The entire building was fitted with smoke detectors, fire alarms and a water sprinkler system.

Meticulous restoration

At the same time, the front entrance of the hotel was demolished and rebuilt using original pictures and plans, to bring it back to its former grandeur. The same meticulous restoration work was done to the reception area, main lounge and the terrace.

The nightly barbecue which used to take place below the terrace was removed. The concrete paving was taken away and that area has now once more reverted to verdant lawns, adorned with flowers, shrubs and indigenous trees. Wooden benches are now in place under the trees for guests to relax and look out across the gardens to the bridge. The hotel introduced a new restaurant called Jungle Junction, named after the reach of water on the Zambezi where the flying boats were serviced in the old days. Luncheon and dinner are served there.

A new look out point below the terrace, facing directly on to the Victoria Falls Bridge and the Batoka Gorge, is another classic addition to the landscaped gardens and lower terrace. The famous Livingstone Room, re-decorated in 1994, now with gold walls replacing the previous sugar pink, had the welcome addition of air-conditioning during the 1996 closure, whilst still retaining the old-fashioned ceiling fans.

Edwardian period

All public areas were tastefully refurbished in keeping with the Edwardian period. The lofty ceilings, with fans gently tempering the heat of summer days,encourage guests to walk around the wide corridors in comfort, each one an art gallery,showing in pictures the long history of the hotel.

The swimming pool has been enlarged, a fountain added and the Edwardian arches of yesteryear restored. All bedrooms now have multi-channel satellite television and access to broadband wifi connectivity– both essential services for modern travellers.

The Stables Wing was added in 1997 with 44 new rooms, comprising42 executive twin-rooms and two honeymoon suites. Built around a similar courtyard and joined to the existing hotel, this wing was constructed in the same Edwardian style.

The bathrooms in the Sables Wing have free-standing baths with ball and claw feet and walk-in showers; a bygone age re-captured. All existing bedrooms in the main hotel were totally refurbished during late 1997 and early 1998, returned in style to the Edwardian era, in keeping with the rest of the hotel.

Leading Hotels of the World

In mid 1998 another exciting development took place when Meikles Africa Hotels bought a 50%stake in The Victoria Falls Hotel, and since then the hotel has been jointly run by African Sun, formerly Zimbabwe Sun, and by Meikles.For some time Meikles Hotel in Harare had been a member of The Leading Hotels of the World, a prestigious groupingthat includes some of the best hotels on each continent. The Victoria Falls Hotel was approved amember of this exclusive group in 1999 and these two are still the only members in Zimbabwe of The Leading Hotels of the World.

The 2000s brought a decline in tourism. During the past decade, however, strenuous efforts by the Victoria Falls travel and tourism community brought about a campaign to restore the fortunes of the area, and this has been successful in reviving visitor levels considerably.

Major refurbishment of The Victoria Falls Hotel has taken place in recent years, ranging from substantial improvements to behind-the-scenes plant and equipment to the upgrading of public areas, bedrooms and suites. This is all necessary to prepare the hotel for the likely steady improvement in visitor numbers in coming years.

More from this issue:
ZT17 (June 2014) - Main Menu
ZT17 (June 2014) - Full Content Listing

More from the Zambezi Traveller:
The Victoria Falls Hotel
Victoria Falls Destination Profile

Sylvester doing well with new handler

Sylvester, the Cheetah Ambassador has recently had to adjust to a new handler, but is coping well according to Farai Chikwara, his new handler and friend - who has been spending a lot of time getting to know Sylvester over the last month-and-a-half, when he stepped in to replace Ed Oelofse.

Farai had been working in Livingstone and has a wealth of experience in working with and training big cats, particularly lions, cheetahs and caracals. He said that Sylvester has taken a while to adjust to the new arrangement but can see that he is now fully adjusted and doing very well.

From the May Wild Horizons Newsletter.

More from the Zambezi Traveller:
Sylvester makes the headlines (Zambezi Traveller Blog, May 2014)
Introducing Sylvester - Cheetah Ambassador, Victoria Falls (Zambezi Traveller, Issue 10, Sept 2012)

Update on new terminal at Victoria Falls International Airport

On Thursday 22nd May, The Airport Manager, Mr Ronnie Masawi invited members of the Hospitality Association of Zimbabwe to a guided tour and site inspection of the new terminal at Victoria Falls International Airport.

The construction of the new terminal is well underway, with the 3rd and final floor of the terminal building, as well as the new 4km (60m wide) runway already nearing the final stages of construction. The runway is scheduled for completion by the end of 2014, when it will be opened in order to make provisions for the upgrading of the current runway (which will be turned into a taxi-way) as well as the extension of the current apron to out in-front of the new terminal building. The new terminal is set to open in June/July of 2015.

The refurbishment and upgrade of Vic Falls International will see the airport, as a facility, upgraded to a ‘Category 2’ airport, which means that it is a very modern airport when it comes to the navigational and safety facilities that it will offer, including an ILS (Instrument Landing System) which will enable pilots to land in either direction in periods of low visibility. Dubai International Airport is also a ‘category 2’ airport. The upgrade involves the construction of a new fire station as well as an entirely new water management infrastructure, including a new 8000m3 reservoir.

The new runway will be able to accommodate all wide-bodied aircraft, up to and including the Airbus A380 Superjumbo – however, as Mr Masawi explained to the visiting group, this does not mean that the terminal building is equipped to accommodate an A380 when it comes to ground handling logistics such as catering and baggage handling. No mention was made as to which airlines are confirmed to have new services scheduled into Victoria Falls once the new terminal building is operational.

There will be 12 customs & immigration desks in the new terminal, which is very welcome news, and is sure to relieve the pressure from the mere two that exist in the current terminal building. The current terminal will also undergo a refurbishment, and will then become a fully-fledged domestic terminal. Mr Masawi also indicated that part of the new domestic terminal upgrade will include the construction of a baggage carousel – (There will be three carousels in the arrivals hall of the new terminal). The new terminal will accommodate up to 1.2 million passengers per annum, and the domestic terminal up to 800,000.

Part of the design of the new terminal will include a large circular patio area (in-permissible, enclosed with glass) which will separate the check-in area from baggage collection section on the ground floor, as well as allow ample natural light to fall into the terminal. As is the case with most modern airports, there are no plans to include a smoking lounge or viewing platform.

Mr Ronnie Masawi and his group of contractors and engineers seem to be running a tight ship, and appear to be sticking to their schedule. The construction site of both the terminal and the runway are in a neat and tidy condition, and the Hospitality Association of Zimbabwe would like to commend all those involved on what appears to be a massive project, and one that is being handled and conducted in a most professional manner.

From the May Wild Horizons Newsletter.

Zambezi Traveller Directory
Wild Horizons Accommodation
Wild Horizons Activities

Raincoats for the rainforest - Wild Horizons help Victoria Falls traders

Wild Horizons, in its bid to empower local indigenous businesses and give back to local communities, has for the past 2 years assisted more than 20 families by coming up with an initiative collaboration which enables vendors at the rainforest to stay in business, stay productive, and maintain an income for them and their families.

Wild Horizons purchases 100 raincoats per year which are then donated to the Rainforest Vendors Association. This is done to ensure quality of the product and ensure that service to Wild Horizons customers is not compromised. Wild Horizons then gets priority to hire the raincoats back from the vendors for their guests' Tour of the Falls. The Association is free to sub-hire the coats to any other clients/companies when not in use by Wild Horizons.

In return, the Association’s obligations are to ensure that they are guardians of the raincoats, and that they are clean (washed and disinfected daily), folded and neatly presented to the clients.

This is just one of many similar projects that we support. Wild Horizons believes that it is small initiatives like this that empower and improve the lives of local people, to whom we owe a solid commitment of corporate social responsibility.

From the May Wild Horizons Newsletter.

Zambezi Traveller Directory
Wild Horizons Accommodation
Wild Horizons Activities

Sylvester makes the headlines

Sylvester, the orphaned cheetah rescued as a cub and now looked after by the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, has made headlines in the UK national press for the incredible bond formed with his handler, Ed Oelofse.

Earlier this week the UK Daily Mail featured an article on Sylvester and Ed. We've picked some highlights here, but visit the Daily Mail website for the full article here.

More from the Zambezi Traveller:
Introducing Sylvester - Cheetah Ambassador, Victoria Falls (Zambezi Traveller, Issue 10, Sept 2012)

Chamabonda update from Bhejane Trust (May 2014)

By Trevor Lane (from the Bhejane Trust May 2014 Newsletter)

We have been doing ongoing maintenance work in the field – the old firebreaks that cross the park have been opened up – they have not been used for many years. Bush clearing of Terminalia around Thomsons pan was undertaken, plus a general tidying up of growth at the solar unit sites and at No 3 base.

The new solar pump unit for No1 was acquired. A frame was made up and the panels and pump imported. This was all assembled at No 1.

However, we discovered a problem when putting down the pump – when Management Unit from Umtshibi was here for the release of wildebeest, etc, they somehow dropped the pump and rods into the hole and did not bother to fish them out. This means we only have two meters of water – the borehole has gone from 32m to 15m deep!

We are test pumping with the solar pump to see if it will produce enough water, and, if not, will try and make a plan to fish the pipes out, or if it comes to the worst, to drill a new borehole.

One issue we are facing is the sudden increase in elephant population in the Chamabonda – they are sucking the water troughs dry at all three water points every evening and the first couple of hours of daylight pumping are just to replenish the troughs!

Bream back in the Chamabonda! When one reads the old wardens reports on the Chambonda, they talk about fishing for bream in the vlei. This seems hard to imagine today!! However, when you look at the photos of old (following) you can see how this was. The good news is that bream are now back in the Chamabonda! Ian du Preez of Nakavango Estates organized to catch a lot and transported them in drums, and were then all released into No 3. Big thanks to Ian and his crew. I will monitor how they get on. Warning – fishing at the pan strictly verboten!!! It is hoped the fish will clean up the pan, and might attract fish eating water birds.

Vernon Booth, ex Parks Ecologist at Matetsi, has sent some fantastic aerial photos of the Chamabonda Vlei in 1980, when it was a lot wetter!!

Website:
Bhejane Trust

Stanbic Bank supports VFAPU

Stanbic Bank Zimbabwe, one of Victoria Falls’ local banks donated uniforms to the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit this year.

Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit (VFAPU) was formed in an effort to fight the alarming levels of destruction that was taking place. The unit needs active support from the community to operate effectively. Stanbic Bank has been donating the unit’s uniforms since 2011.

These state-protected areas are home to numerous species of fauna and flora, which, through recent times have unfortunately been subject to a dramatic increase in various forms of poaching. Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world and is designated a World Heritage Site, under the UNESCO World Heritage Convention. The Falls are surrounded by the 2,340 ha Victoria Falls National Park and the 57,000 ha Zambezi National Park.

Stanbic Bank operates a branch in Victoria Falls at Phumula Centre.

Zambezi Traveller Directory:
Stanbic Bank
Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit

A tour of the Batoka Gorge canopy

The Batoka Gorge from Platfrom 8 of the Wild Horizons Batoka Gorge Canopy Tour (Image credit: Wild Horizons Facebook Page)

The concept of the ‘canopy tour’ is a relatively new product in the tourism industry, with the first canopy tour operation opening around 5 years ago in South America. Since then there have been several other operations launched in various parts of the world, including quite a number across South Africa.

Wikipedia describes a canopy tour as “an established route through a wooded and often mountainous landscape making primary use of zip-lines and aerial bridges between platforms built in trees”.

In our case, the Vic Falls Canopy Tour is a series of 9 zip-lines, or ‘slides’, which zigzags across the Batoka Gorge in amongst the thick vegetation which grows on the edges of this spectacular natural canyon. The tour is operated from the Wild Horizons Lookout, and takes place within the cove that is formed by the first bend in the river below the Falls – directly beneath the Victoria Falls Hotel. Apart from the 9 cable slides, (or ‘foofy’ slides), the route also comprises a series of boarded walkways and rope bridges, all of which have safety lines to which guests are fastened at all times. The course from start to finish will take around 60 – 90 minutes, depending on the size of the group.

Of-course one of the factors that makes this activity so popular is the breathtaking views of the Batoka Gorge, the Zambezi River and it’s turbulent rapids, and the Victoria Falls Bridge! This is not to mention the awe-inspiring flora and fauna which thrives in the canopy of the Batoka Gorge! It is also a treat for bird watchers, as they are likely to spot Trumpeter Hornbill, Schalow's Turaco and Peregrine Falcon - and if you are extremely lucky, the rare Taita Falcon.

The slides vary in speed and length, but are all relatively low-speed and are more than suitable for those who don’t consider themselves as adrenalin junkies. The activity is perfect for families with young kids who are looking for that little bit of excitement, but might be too young to take part in the more adrenalin-demanding activities such as the gorge swing or bungee jump. (The same goes for the parents, who on the contrary might be “a little too old” for the bigger adrenalin-demanders!). It is the perfect ‘in-between’ activity, which there is not much choice for when it comes to the plethora of Victoria Falls activities on offer by the many various tour operators. The tour is also suitable for those who don’t like heights as for the most part the slides traverse through trees and thick vegetation.

The canopy tour is growing in popularity when it comes to adventure tourism around the world because of its mild, safe and family-friendly nature. The Vic Falls Canopy Tour is undoubtedly one of the world’s most spectacular courses and is an industry leader when it comes to safety and equipment, as well the training of their staff and guides. The Vic Falls Canopy Tour is a highly recommended activity, which has repeatedly been described as excellent value for money.

The Vic Falls Canopy Tour sells for USD$50 per person, and can be booked by contacting the Wild Horizons reservations team through their website, www.wildhorizons.co.za - or through the main booking office located at 310 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls.

Zambezi Traveller Directory:
Wild Horizons Activities

Gorges Lodge refurbishment

Our refurbishment program at Gorges Lodge is well underway and our first four rooms are complete. We hope to complete the remaining 6 rooms over the course of this year.

In our refurbisheded rooms we have removed the multiple small glass pane frames on the windows and sliding doors and replaced them with large single glass panes, as well as mosquito gauze, so the doors and windows can now be opened to allow cool air in and the gauze will keep out any bugs! The rooms themselves have been enlarged, and the beds now face the gorge. The rooms have new overhead fans within feature mosquito net canopies and all the furniture and soft furnishings are new.

The bathrooms have been made bigger and we have taken out the old baths and replaced them with a big feature double shower complete with seating area, twin shower heads plus a third hand held shower unit. The bathrooms now have twin vanities, new floors, new toilets and new light fittings.

Journalists who stayed at Gorges Lodge recently did a write up in the Cape Times newspaper:

Cape Times - 17 July - River of dreams - Gorges lodge saves the day.

Zambezi Traveller Directory
Imvelo Safari Lodges

Four new suites at The Elephant Camp

Wild Horizons and The Elephant Camp are pleased to announce the introduction of four new tented suites to be constructed to the west of the current 12 room facility.

The requirement for rooms at The Elephant Camp continues to exceed availability and in addition we see an increased demand from small groups and families requiring an “exclusive” lodge experience.

The new suites will act as a hybrid between an extension of the current camp, as well as a stand-alone facility offering an exclusive experience for up to 12 people. The new facility will offer its own central lounge, bar and dining area with a main deck and pool, as well as its own curio shop and kitchen. The new suites will have their own duty manager and team of guides and staff, who will fall under the general management of The Elephant Camp, and utilize some of the main camp’s back-of-house services.

The new facility will offer cuisine of the same high standard as that offered by The Elephant Camp, with catering staff being managed and overseen by the Executive Chef at the main Elephant Camp.

The four new tented suites will be the same size, style and design as the current rooms – with each consisting of it’s own bedroom area (interchangeable between double & twin), lounge, bathroom with indoor and outside shower, and private deck and plunge pool overlooking a waterhole and the Victoria Falls National Park, with views of the spray of the Fall in the distance. Each suite will also be equipped with a fold out sleeper-couch to cater for small families.

Bush clearing will be kept to a bare minimum during the development of the new suites in accordance with Wild Horizons’ environmental policy. The suites have been sited so as to utilize the existing trees and vegetation to create as much natural privacy as possible. Other green initiatives being implemented include utilizing ‘grey water’ systems and solar water heaters where possible. Along with the construction of the four suites and main facility, there will be a small admin office/curio shop/public washroom tent as well as extra staff accommodation and staff canteen incorporated into the blueprints.

The opening date for the extension of the Elephant Camp is January 2015.

Zambezi Traveller Directory:
Wild Horizons Accommodation

Gorges and Bomani Combo

Gorges and Bomani Combo - Stay for 6 pay for 4

Usual package rate (Rack): US$1890 per person sharing

Special package rate (Rack): US$1430 per person sharing – a saving of US$460

This special package rate includes 3 nights at Gorges Lodge in Victoria Falls and 3 nights at Bomani Tented Lodge in Hwange National Park.

Includes:
- Return airport transfers to Victoria Falls Airport
- Return road transfers between Gorges and Bomani lodges
- Accommodation, all meals, drinks and laundry at both camps
- Usual activities whilst at Gorges, choose from black eagle viewing with - sundowners, traditional dancing display, a visit to see the mighty Victoria Falls or a local village and school visit
- Return transfers to Victoria Falls town for each night of your stay at Gorges Lodge
- All safari activities at Bomani, choose from morning and afternoon game drives, game walks, ‘pump runs’ (a full day out in Hwange National Park) or village and school visits all with the service of a qualified guide whilst on safari
- Hwange National Parks entry fee at Bomani and Victoria Falls Park entrance fee

Valid until end 2014

Zambezi Traveller Directory
Imvelo Safari Lodges

The Victoria Falls Big Tree

The Victoria Falls Big Tree, 2011 (Image credit: Peter Roberts)

The Big Tree of Victoria Falls is one of the important heritage sites in the area. This massive baobab (Adansonia digitata) stands proud just off Zambezi River Drive. It is known throughout Zimbabwe and indeed across the globe, for over the last century thousands of visitors have seen this giant of the veld.

Early visitors to the Big Tree, 1915 (Image credit: Percy Clark)

Along with photographs of the Falls themselves, there are countless historical images of the Big Tree. Those in my collection show surprisingly little change over the last century, other than the two stems towards the Zambezi. This suggests that on the whole the tree is no longer actively growing and expanding outward. There is a possibility that the main trunk actually consists of several fused stems, a not uncommon feature of baobabs.

The Big Tree, 1950s

The tree is just under 17m in diameter. Some have suggested, on the basis of data collected from growing baobabs, that this equates to an age of 1,500 to 2,000 years. Indeed this may be so, but for how long has this tree been in stasis, expanding no further? We will probably never know and all respect is due to this grand old lady of Victoria Falls.

While by no means the largest baobab in Zimbabwe, the Big Tree of Victoria Falls has been silent witness to centuries of human change. It was there when the first farmers started to till the soil in this area. It has seen shifting tribal groups and political alliances – Tonga, Leya, Lozi, Nambya and Ndebele.

The Victoria Falls, painted by Thomas Baines, 1863.

Being near to the Falls it was a popular camping spot for European travellers in the precolonial period. Not however David Livingstone. His travels were on the north bank of the Zambezi when he first documented the Falls, but others have camped here, like hunter James Chapman, artist Thomas Baines, trader George Westbeach and Czech traveller and collector Emil Holub. Could the large baobab illustrated in one of Baines’ paintings on the far left distance be the big tree? Dated to 1863 it probably is. It certainly appears on Holub’s 1870 map of the Falls.

It was near here that Albert Geise, the man who first pegged coal at Hwange, had a trading store long before the town of Victoria Falls existed. Also nearby was one of two south bank crossing points for those wanting to go north. Later the Victoria Falls Hotel used the spot when it had its own launches for early Zambezi Cruises. The now abandoned jetty was linked to the hotel by a narrow gauge rail track on which trolleys were pushed by human effort.

Sadly the Big Tree was scarred by many of its early visitors, as well as some more recent. What pride can one take in spoiling a tree like this? There is also concern that elephants, that have damaged this area that was once a thick forest, could smash it. Some years ago, no one can tell me just when, the local authorities fenced in the tree. This has never really worked for long and the fence is periodically replaced. It is an unfortunate visual scar spoiling modern photographs, while I see that it still doesn’t exclude humans.

The Big Tree, 2009 (Image credit: Rob Burrett)

When next you get to pay homage to this old lady, remember her age and treat her with respect. Even the slightest scar can get infected and cause death. We will all be losers should we lose the Big Tree so that she cannot also be gazed upon by our children’s children’s children.

Read more articles from this issue:
Zambezi Traveller (Issue 13, June 2013)

Read more about baobabs:
The Big Tree (ZT, Issue 13, June 2013)
Succulent folds of grey (ZT, Issue 13, June 2013)
The baobab’s secret (ZT, Issue 13, June 2013)
In love with baobabs (ZT, Issue 09, Sept 2012)

Read more about the region in our destination guide:
Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls Fun Enduro

In aid of Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust

For more information visit www.facebook.com/VictoriaFallsWildlifeTrustFunEnduro

20 things you may not know about Victoria Falls

This year marks the 20th Birthday of Africa Albida Tourism’s flagship property, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, one of Zimbabwe’s most iconic hotels. Famous for the wide, expansive vistas and its on-site waterhole, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge has developed into an internationally acclaimed, award-winning hotel.

Kicking off the countdown for Victoria Falls Safari Lodge’s 20th birthday celebrations in December 2014, here are 20 things you may not know about Victoria Falls:

• Devil’s Cataract, on the Zimbabwe side of the Victoria Falls, has a drop of 60m, making it the lowest of the five Falls. Re-opened in August 2013, the Devil’s Cataract view point is a great vantage point from which to view the Falls. Be careful though, the steps are often wet and slippery!

• Because of the spray from the falls, the Rain Forest at Victoria Falls is the only place on earth where it rains 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, making it well and truly a ‘rainforest’.

• During a full moon, if the conditions are ideal, one can see a ‘moonbow’ also known as a lunar rainbow at Victoria Falls. Seen through the spray at night instead of during the day as a solar rainbow, the colour scheme and the shape of the curvature of the moonbow, are exactly the same as the beautiful rainbow seen in the day time.

• One can take a walk in the Zambezi National Park with the Victoria Falls Anti Poaching Unit (VFAPU), and support efforts to protect the wildlife and environment of Victoria Falls. Charles Brightman, a local safari operator and conservationist, together with the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, established the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit (VFAPU), in January 1999. VFAPU has worked in close co-operation with the National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority and the Zimbabwe Republic Police, to achieve many successes.

• Described as an unforgettable African experience infused with mouth watering local cuisine, spirited dance performances and traditional storytelling. Baxton Mashuku and Joseph Nyangani, have been selling curios at the Boma since 2001. Caught wood-poaching by the VFAPU scouts in 2001, the gentlemen were offered the option of sourcing their wood sustainably and in exchange, would be able to sell their hand-crafted curios at The Boma - Place of Eating. They have been legally and sustainably selling curios for the past twelve years! These gentlemen are an amazing example of creating sustainable solutions that benefit the environment and the local community. You can find them every evening, come rain or shine at The Boma – Place of Eating.

• For the next 15 years, powered by Telecel, one of 1,8 million different colour possibilities will illuminate the Victoria Falls Bridge each night – it truly is a spectacle to behold!

• Victoria Falls is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Spanning all corners of the Earth, the Grand Canyon, the Great Barrier Reef, the Harbour of Rio de Janeiro, Mount Everest, the Polar Aurora and the Paricutin volcano make up the remaining 6.

• In 1989, Victoria Falls was inscribed as a World Heritage Site. This means that Victoria Falls, as a World Heritage site, belongs to all peoples of the world.

• Taita falcons, one of the world’s rarest raptors, have been recorded nesting in the Victoria Falls gorge. Victoria Falls is home to other threatened bird species such as African Skimmers, rock pratincole, grey-headed parrot, Lilian's Llvebird, lappet-faced, hooded and white-backed vultures – so keep an eye-out and you may spot one of these threatened species.

• Stone artefacts from the hominin Homo habilis have been identified near the Falls and show that early humans may have lived here two million years ago.

• Victoria Falls Airport will be able to accommodate wide-body jets by mid 2014, thanks to the new 4 km runway currently being built. Catch sight of it as you come in for landing!

• Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, Victoria Falls Safari Club and the new Victoria Falls Safari Suites are all western facing, allowing guests the opportunity to enjoy splendid vistas of African sunsets.

• Victoria Falls hosts the annual Jameson Victoria Falls Carnival in December, the tough but inspiring, Econet Victoria Falls Marathon and 3 day Mountain Bike Challenge in June.

• The Zambezi River is the fourth longest river in Africa, after the Nile, Congo, and Niger Rivers.

• The Zambezi River flows through six countries, Zambia, Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Mozambique.

• Victoria Falls lies almost half way along the Zambezi River in its 1677 mile stretch from its source to the Indian Ocean.

• The Africa Albida Tourism properties are the only properties in the area to have a no-fly zone above them.

• Victoria Falls is one and a half times wider and twice as high as Niagara.

• The Victoria Falls Bridge, completed in 1905 measures 650 feet in total length and stands 400 feet above the river, nearly 3,000 feet above sea level. Constructed by building anchored cantilevers from the edges of the gorge toward the centre, the bridge was considered a feat of engineering in its day.

• Victoria Falls Safari Lodge has recently been voted in the Top 25 Resorts and Safari Camps in Africa by Conde’ Nast Traveler – the only Zimbabwean property to be listed in this category.

>The Africa Albida Tourism collection also includes the chic, butler service Victoria Falls Safari Club, the RCI Gold Crown Resort, Lokuthula Lodges, the luxury Ngoma Safari Lodge in Chobe, Botswana, the a la carte MaKuwa-Kuwa restaurant and the enthralling Boma- Place of Eating. A new addition to the Africa Albida Tourism portfolio in December 2013, are the spacious Victoria Falls Safari Suites.

Congratulations and Happy 20th Birthday Victoria Falls Safari Lodge!

Zambezi Traveller Directory:
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge

Zambezi Explorer Cruise Company appoints Keychain Hospitality

Zambezi Explorer Cruise Company has announced the appointment of the Keychain Hospitality to manage its operations in Victoria Falls. The new management arrangement will see Keychain Hospitality join the top class operational team on the ground to further enhance this amazing range of experiences for our guests.

The Zambezi Explorer Cruise Company is an operation based in Victoria Falls that specializes in offering the discerning traveller a luxury cruising experience on the Zambezi River above the mighty Victoria Falls.

The company has a fleet of four boats offering a variety of experiences and cruises. The flagship vessel is the luxurious Zambezi Explorer, which offers eco-friendly cruises, as facilities on board are entirely solar powered and include WiFi and wheelchair accessibility.

Voted as the top activity in Victoria Falls on Tripadvisor, the vessel boasts three decks with a total capacity of 150 guests. The signature deck offers a VIP cruise with gourmet hors d’oeuvres and premium beverages. The two lower decks provide guests with a five star cruise offering a wide range of snacks and drinks.

The Zambezi Explorer is available for breakfast, lunch, sunset and dinner cruises, as well as corporate conferences, weddings and specialized functions.

The Zambezi Reflections has recently been refurbished and redesigned to offer breakfast, lunch and dinner cruises, offering a fine dining experience whilst cruising the Zambezi River.

The Explorers’ Riverside is the most breathtaking riverbank venue the Victoria Falls has to offer. Our manicured lawns meet the river with over 110m of river frontage, creating a lovely ambiance with spectacular views. Our riverside is used as a venue for lunch, dinner, private events and weddings. Since the Zambezi Explorer picks up guests at the jetty along side our lawns, it is ideal for combining your riverside event with a cruise.

There are two other vessels, which are available for hire for private dinner cruises, corporate functions or group cruises.

Keychain Hospitality is very proud to add this prestigious operation to its portfolio, and intends to position the product as the premier experience of its type in this amazing location.

Zambezi Traveller Directory:
Zambezi Explorer

Five things to do while staying at the Victoria Falls Safari Suites

Opened on 20 December 2013, the Victoria Falls Safari Suites are the newest addition to the Africa Albida Tourism portfolio.

Built alongside the sophisticated Victoria Falls Safari Club and a short walk away from the famed Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, the Safari Suites offer privacy and space.

The Safari Suites are comprised of 6 luxury units, of which 4 are 2 en suite bedroom units and 2 are 3 en suite bedroom units and are ideal for families, small close–knit groups and couples who seek extra space and comfort. Five things to do while staying in the Safari Suites:

1. The Safari Suites each have a spacious lounge with floor-to-ceiling sliding doors opening out onto a splendid patio. So chill out and enjoy the sound of the bush surrounds.

2. Challenge the children to identify 5 birds and mammals seen from the comfort of the Safari Suites. There are children’s mammal and bird books in each of the Safari Suites.

3. Enjoy an evening of dancing, singing, drumming, eating and so much more at The Boma – Place of Eating, a short walk away from the Safari Suites.

4. Take a tour of Victoria Falls. You can book a tour with the resort’s guide as you check into the Safari Suites. Remember to rent a raincoat!

5. Explore the town of Victoria Falls. The Victoria Falls Safari Lodge resort offers a complimentary hourly shuttle into town. There is much to see in Victoria Falls town, from the residential warthog families, to the brightly coloured textiles and unique art and craft on offer.

The Safari Suites provide home comforts such as a 46-inch LCD TV with satellite TV, Wi-Fi, a courtesy counter with minibar refrigerator, preparation sink, Nespresso machine, beverage station, popcorn maker, iPod docking station and a separate adjoining TV lounge with a 22-inch LCD monitor for connection to Xbox, Nintendo, Wii and PS3 for iPods. A sofa bed located in the TV lounge can sleep one extra person (recommended for a child) if needed.

All Safari Suites are split-level and fully air-conditioned, and offer fans, mosquito nets, hairdryers, telephones, digital safes, complimentary tea and coffee making facilities, plus a range of quality toiletries including insect repellent and sunscreen lotion.

Zambezi Traveller Directory:
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge

Tourists help expand Jubalani School project

Tourists help expand Jubalani School project

Children In The Wilderness (CITW) is a non-profit organisation that aims to restore a sense of hope, ambition and the possibility of a bright & productive future to southern African youth. Within Zimbabwe, CITW have adopted 6 rural schools under their umbrella and with the help of donor funding, run a number of initiatives to assist children and their teachers and parents within their own milieu, such as school nutrition schemes& construction programs, village upliftment and scholarships. Jabulani Primary School is one such school, this small rural school has 214 students and is situated approximately 22km outside Victoria Falls. Unfortunately the facilities at the school are rather rudimentary and much is needed to cater for the growing student body. That said, the School Principal is a passionate & driven woman who takes great pride in her school.

The Rotary Club of Victoria Falls works closely with CITW on numerous programmes and recently referred visitors from Canada who wanted to make a difference to disadvantaged students. The ladies of Summerlea Golf Club in Canada were excited at the idea of helping Jabulani Primary School and with thanks to their fund raising benefits were able to send a generous donation.

It was decided to combine Summerlea’s funding with other donor funding received to add another two toilets to a project that originally would have included four toilets. The finished project will now comprise of 6 toilets– 3 girls and 3 boys. On behalf of the students of Jabulani Primary School, grateful thanks are extended to everyone involved.

Children in the Wilderness is supported by Wilderness Safaris.

Zambezi Traveller Directory:
Wilderness Safaris
Davison's Camp (Hwange)
Little Makalolo (Hwange)

Gorges Lodge and Bomani Tented Lodge Combo

Gorges Lodge and Bomani Tented Lodge Combo – Pay for 4 nights, stay for 6

Special package rate (Rack): US$1430 per person sharing

Usual package rate (Rack): US$1890 per person sharing – a saving of US$460

This special package rate includes 3 nights at Gorges Lodge in Victoria Falls and 3 nights at Bomani Tented Lodge in Hwange National Park.

Included:

Return airport transfers to Victoria Falls Airport, return road transfers between Gorges and Bomani , accommodation at both lodges, all meals, all drinks and laundry at both lodges. Activities whilst at Gorges includes black eagle viewing with sundowners, traditional dancing display, a visit to see the mighty Victoria Falls and a local village and school visit, return transfers to Victoria Falls town for each night of your stay at Gorges Lodge. Safari activities at Bomani include morning and afternoon game drives, game walks, ‘pump runs’ (a full day out in Hwange National Park) or village and school visits all with the service of a qualified guide and National Parks entry fees.

For more information on these specials to check availability please contact Sjaan on reservations@imvelosafarilodge.som or (+263 9) 65640.

Zambezi Traveller Directory:
Imvelo Safari Lodges

Imvelo New Year Update

Imvelo Safari Lodges, Victoria Falls & Hwange (Zimbabwe)

• At the beginning of January we began an extensive and exciting remodelling program on the chalets at Gorges Lodge (Victoria Falls). The first phase of remodelling will be completed by mid March so watch this space for more updates on the progress!

• The building of the next 4 villas at Camelthorn Lodge (Hwange) are well underway and will be ready by the end of March.

• We are thrilled to announce that Bomani Tented Lodge (Hwange) was announced as finalist for the 2014 Safari Awards!

Zambezi Traveller Directory
Imvelo Safari Lodges

VFSL listed in Top 25 Resorts and Safari Camps in Africa

On the eve of its 20th birthday, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge has been voted in the Top 25 Resorts and Safari Camps in Africa by Conde’ Nast Traveler. Set high on a plateau, which forms a natural boundary to the Zambezi National Park, enjoying uninterrupted views of unspoilt bushveld, spectacular African sunsets and an on-site waterhole, the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is ideally positioned to offer the most discerning traveller a taste of Africa at its best.

With 1.3 million votes cast and nearly 80,000 people voting in the 2013 Readers’ Choice Awards, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, the only Zimbabwean property to be listed in the category, has for the third year running, been recognised along with the ‘Best in the World’ by Conde’ Nast Taveler.

Named in conjunction with celebrated names such as Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve, the Singita properties of Sabi Sand, Kruger and Grumeti, Lions Sands and Phinda Private Game Reserve, it is clear that Zimbabwe as a destination is beginning to be thought of by astute, global travellers as a premier destination with Victoria Falls Safari Lodge leading the pack.

Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers superb game viewing opportunities, a range of activities to suit every age, inspired restaurants, unique cultural artefacts and art, banks and ATMs, and a hospital all within a National Park.

Conde’ Nast Traveler predicts that in 2014, more families will choose Africa as their holiday destination of choice. With safaris beginning to grow in popularity amongst families, Zimbabwe, a safe, peaceful, game abundant and beautifully diverse wilderness destination has much to offer. Zimbabwe is renowned for its fantastic National Parks and has a fine tradition of producing outstanding safari guides; eight Zimbabweans were acknowledged by Conde’ Nast Traveler in December 2013, as among the Top 25 Best Safari Guides.

Named by Lonely Planet in the Best Top 10 regions to travel in November and on the back of the success of the United Nations World Tourism Organisation general assembly in Victoria Falls in August – an event attended by representatives of 120 countries and 900 affiliate organisations, Zimbabwe has had an impressive 2013.

Read more about the region in our destination guide:
Victoria Falls

More from the Zambezi Traveller:
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge